Analysis of the Impact of Loading Modality on the Structural Integrity of HMS-Type Safety Connectors
Abstract
This report presents the results of load-bearing tests conducted on HMS-type climbing carabiners used in mountaineering. Carabiners serve as a vital component of belay systems, facilitating the connection between ropes and anchor points, attaching belay devices to harnesses, and constructing climbing stations. Historically, these connectors were primarily made of steel and featured oval shapes with locking gates. Today, they are produced from both steel and aluminum, available in various shapes and sizes depending on their intended application [Fig. 1]. The primary function of these metal connectors is to ensure the safe transfer of loads during climbing activities. All commercially available and approved products must comply with established strength standards [1]. The International Federation of Mountaineering Associations has issued general guidelines for carabiner design aimed at enhancing safety [1]. Nonetheless, incidents still occur [4], often due to equipment failure or improper use. Certain scenarios, such as the construction of belay stations [Fig. 2], are not explicitly covered by current standards, which can lead to potential damage to the equipment and compromise safety.
